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Mother Know Best! Vogue Moms Weigh In on the Spring 2017 Collections

Mother Know Best! Vogue Moms Weigh In on the Spring 2017 Collections

Vogue

The dust from the Spring 2017 collections has settled; all the designers have taken their final bow, and our editors have returned from an exhaustive monthlong marathon of nonstop shows. And yet, the reviews are still coming in—the mother of all reviews, if you will. With a discerning eye and a complete lack of a filter, Vogue moms are weighing in on a season that pioneered the see-now-buy-now runway show, front row feminism, and Balenciaga’s racy “pantashoes.” As they once fussed over our own attire (or perhaps still do?), our dear mothers are keen to take on the collections with unabashed honesty and enthusiasm, projecting theories that often ring true—whether we’d like to admit it or not. Here, 14 Vogue moms share their thoughts on the season.   Nancy Phelps, Mother of Vogue Runway Director Nicole Phelps, Reviews Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Balenciaga, Loewe, and Rick Owens Louis Vuitton Yes, I said to myself after Look 1, that is something I could wear. Wait. I stopped after Look 4. Why the cut-outs? Why show skin and body parts that ladies of my age would rather keep covered? On to the next one. Valentino The designer Pierpaolo Piccioli creates beautiful dresses, but what do big-chested women who need to wear a bra do? Balenciaga Look 26 reminds me of a dress I sewed for myself to wear on New Year’s Eve in the early ’70s. The vibrant colors and prints were stunning, but the wide shoulders gotta go. Makes me think of girls wearing the jackets from their father or grandfather’s closet. Loewe The show made me wince. I could not handle the asymmetrical outfits, raveled and unfinished hems, the color brown, curtain fringe, and bat necklaces. But I did like the handbags. Rick Owens Now here is a designer for Tilda Swinton! Is he designing for futuristic movies with elaborate costumes? Okay, I did it and realize how difficult your job is.   Cathy J. Singer, Mother of Vogue.com Contributor Maya Singer, Reviews Maryam Nassir Zadeh I’d like to start by saying that I respect the “artist” in everyone who bothers to make the effort. And I understand that all art has antecedents in earlier artworks. And I believe that, as in Ecclesiastes, there is nothing new under the sun. But with all that said, I also believe that art and design, to be forward-moving and exciting, should bring something special to the table. After reviewing several of the offerings from Vogue’s list of runway shows, I have opted to write about work that my daughter Maya seems to have admired, the collection from Maryam Nassir Zadeh. I am confounded by the admiration. I remember the peasant skirts with multi-tiers, the “romantic” sleeves that inevitably dragged through your dinner plate as you reached for the salt; I remember culottes and palazzo pants, unnecessary peplums, Diane von Furstenberg wrap clothing, and those weird-length skirts with ugly buttons down the front. In other words, the Maryam Nassir Zadeh collection looked familiar. (An aside: I’m pretty sure there is a picture of me, from when Maya was in second grade, wearing that exact white sweater with red stripes, and an A-line denim skirt. Maybe the stripes on my sweater were a different color. I’d have to look for the photo.) Having been a home sewer for decades, I also recognize “easy-to-sew” patterns; a godsend for sewers afraid of the medium-to-hard-to-difficult warnings on Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick, and Vogue patterns. I’ve got a collection of old patterns; somewhere in a cabinet in my sewing room, I’ve probably got patterns for most of the clothing in this collection. So now you think I am just a crotchety old critic. But I put up this collection against the collections of Rachel Comey, Maria Cornejo, and Issey Miyake: They also have some simple silhouettes, sometimes with simple color, but also sometimes with amazing color, texture, and fine detail. There is always room for an exciting detail to raise the level. The closest Zadeh seems to come is with the belted coatdress with color-blocked hem and colorful sash (Look 23). And I must admit, I do love the simple dress (Look 11) and the obi sash jacket (Look 24). And then there was all that sheer stuff. What is that all about?   Helene Barsamian, Mother of Vogue.com Style Editor Edward Barsamian, Reviews Yeezy I find this collection intriguing, yet a tad incoherent. There are body-hugging looks which do not lend themselves to most women’s body types, as well as flowing and oversize sweatshirt-like pieces. Are you going clubbing, are you going to the gym, or are you flopping on your couch? The boots are pretty cool—that is if you can get them on and off without needing to call on an orderly for help (although army looks 25 and 26 point to the fact that it was thought about). My favorites are the shearling coats—all of them! Awesome coats from looks 16, 20, 23, 28, 30!   Kathleen Connor, Mother of Vogue.com Market Editor Kelly Connor, Reviews Louis Vuitton My choice show to comment on is the Vuitton show. Because Nicolas Ghesquière is such a genius, he has the ability, right off the bat, to convince the viewer that polka dots, metallic trims, sheer panels (are they really here to stay?) are timeless and appropriate. I had fun imagining myself in the sexy asymmetrical jersey dresses. The harlequin prints looked fresh and crisp, and brought back memories of the cropped harlequin jumpsuit I wore in the early ’90s that horrified my hippie L.A. friends (and possibly my very young daughters). The tailored pieces are sublime, and looks 12,14, and 15 would kick any wardrobe into instant coolness. I think his leather pieces are ravishing and at the same time, the staples we have been hunting for for decades. Oh wait—am I aging myself? I will be dreaming of this show, and of wearing his designs. See, the ’80s were cool!   Barbara Danielson, Mother of Vogue.com Accessories Editor Brooke Danielson, Reviews Alexander McQueen When I go out shopping, I like to find individual pieces that are different, a bit unusual. Pairing them with more conservative elements, they can make for a memorable outfit—something not too conservative for a working mom of four, but age appropriate. At first glance, Alexander McQueen’s collection appears too edgy, too much fabric, too many flowers, and ruffles for me. Many looks have a retro, almost ’60s vibe—kind of like, “been there, done that.” But when I stopped to analyze them individually, I thought, “Wow, that would be great with . . .” Some thoughts: I love the soft, flowing lace of the dress of Look 6. I would wear it with a pretty jacket and a pair of heels. Love Look 8’s jacket. Paired with a white shirt and a pair of black straight-leg pants, I could wear it to work. If I tried to wear those pants and boots to the law firm, they would think I had been mugged the night before and my clothes stolen! If I tried to wear Look 10, I would look like I had lost a few of my brain cells, and had forgotten how to dress. Not a good look for a mature woman! Look 11 is one of my favorites. I love this sweater. I would wear it with black leggings and a white shirt. It reminds me of a sweater that I bought in London at the Ritz hotel years ago. When I wear it, it reminds me of that wonderful trip! Look 37 is beautiful, classic, timeless; black lace, off-the-shoulder, feminine, delicate. I, of course, would have to wear a slip underneath, and chuck the boots, but I could definitely see myself at a party at the Keswick Club, dancing the night away in this number! Wow, is all that I can say about Look 42. Stunning. This reminds me of my all-time favorite evening dress: a black and gold Carolina Herrera that I am saving for my daughters! I’ll take it! Look 43 is an interesting dress. She looks like a mermaid from heaven who got stuck in the waves on re-entry!   Hazel Carlos, Mother of Vogue.com Senior Fashion Writer Marjon Carlos, Reviews Céline The Spring 2017 Céline collection is a unique return to a series of styles, including the layered look, the chemise, and the rounded shoulders, the peasant dress, the stunning shirtdress, and the wonderful oversize pantsuit. I love these styles because they are reminiscent of so many different style eras. I am especially attracted to the chemise. It seems like such a relaxed look that can be worn with sandals or heels or boots. What I also like about many of the items in the collection is the rounded shoulders that soften the outfits. For example, the white, button-down with the blue piping across the chest and around the base of the sleeves make a unique statement about this free-flowing style. Another gorgeous style is the undercoat, vest, and culottes. Finally, I am excited that the long coat pant has returned. It is slimming, powerful and functional, especially with the crisp, white blouse. In addition to the stunning outfits, I like the jewelry, especially the earrings. I have always liked the dangling earrings because they help to frame my Afro-centric hairstyle nicely. The look is varied, crisp, and new, and there is much to like about it. What I like most about the collection is its diversity, power, and creativity. I am sure I will see some Dallasites donning these outfits as they stroll along the avenues and boulevards of the metroplex.   Jasmine Smallhorne, Mother of Vogue.com Fashion News Writer Janelle Okwodu, Reviews Versace I thought the Versace collection was beautiful. I liked the vibrant colors, though they seemed very moody for Spring. There was a lot of color-blocking on some of the looks which was great. and some sexy peekaboos, too. My favorite was the asymmetrical gray suit that came with a little purse like a lunchbox. There was something very retro about the whole collection; I’m almost reminded of old sweatsuits from the ’90s—I can see people power walking in some of these prints.   Karen Satenstein, Mother of Vogue.com Fashion News Writer Liana Satenstein, Reviews Balenciaga Balenciaga. The power jacket, our fashion flag of 1980. Today, padded shoulders are spinning glory again, spiced with traces of Bowie and military. This time though, menswear coats have motion, finished with oversize carry-ons—structured bags flying in the air, or pulled on wheels ready for take-off. Salute the look with tinted aviators. Wide shoulders, lapels, and collars are trusted winners, stars again in 2017.   Elaine Yotka, Mother of Vogue.com Fashion News Editor Steff Yotka, Reviews Balmain, Proenza Schouler, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, and Altuzarra Wow, I love them all especially Altuzarra, which spoke to me the most. Most of my clothes are black and white, and some of the Altuzarra outfits provided that needed “touch of color.” The army green pencil skirt with the diagonal button closure and matching shirt (Look 17); the midi shirt dress in python with the red ruffled bottom (Look 6); and the sleeveless white top with the black appliqué paired with the black ruffled hem slacks (Look 32) were highlights. I loved the red checked pencil skirt (Look 16), and the little black dresses (Looks 29 and 31) were adorable. The long dresses (Looks 36 and 37) were pretty and wearable. The not-so-good looks—in my opinion—were the short shorts and the bra tops. Does one actually wear these pieces out? Hmmm, maybe not the shorts, but the little bra tops could be worn with a short ruffled jacket. Of course, every show setting was gorgeous and creative and tied into the fashion, but at times, seemed to be a distraction, as was all the interest in “Who’s Who” in the front row. I may be the only one who misses the shows in the tents in Bryant Park with the hustle and bustle of the Garment District nearby. It was fun getting to see all the shows and happenings of fashion month online, and thanks, Vogue, for giving us moms the chance to have a taste of what our children do every day!   Susan Anderson, Mother of Vogue.com Fashion News Writer Kristin Anderson, Reviews Balenciaga I really would have been in my element if I had chosen to write my impressions of Valentino’s collection. Being a lifelong romantic, and an admirer of most things Renaissance, I felt I could appreciate the inspiration and the artistry of the designer. To use one of my favorite words, the collection was “lovely.” That would have been taking the easy road though. Instead, I’ve chosen to step outside my comfort zone, and look at another designer who might offer a chance to expand my horizons. Balenciaga was a name I thought I remembered from some far-distant past, associating it with ball gowns and maybe smart, tailored suits. Anyway, if that had ever been the case, time has certainly marched on. My first impression was optimistic; “Maybe I can appreciate this. Box-shouldered trench coats; soft, feminine, drapey blouses, reminiscent of films from the ’40s—all very nice.” But then I had a “Wait a minute, what’s going on here?” moment. This definitely wasn’t appealing to me. At one point, my husband inquired, “Why is the model wearing that fly-fishing vest?” (Look 19). My kindest thought was, if she has to wear it, couldn’t they have found a (much) smaller size? From there on things seemed to go from bad to worse. A few word associations that came to mind: “shower curtain,” “inflatable raft,” and “Batman.” At that point I realized tolerance for the changing face of high fashion isn’t something I should ever hope to accomplish.   Beverly Farra, Mother of Vogue.com Fashion News Associate Emily Farra, Reviews Chanel, Céline, and Valentino While looking at the Spring ’17 collections, I’m struck by how they can all be so different. I applaud the ingenuity and individuality of all the designers. It’s difficult for me to be a critic when I know I possess none of the creativity of the designers. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so here are my thoughts on a few of the collections. Chanel Chanel was lovely as always with its textural jackets and pretty colors. I mean a girl can’t go wrong in a Chanel jacket. Céline Sometimes designers confuse weird with interesting! Take Céline, for instance. Its “Rorschach test” dresses just do not do it for me. I actually need a psychological test after looking at look 12! Valentino However, I can’t help but smile when I see the collection from Valentino. I must admit, I love all things Italian. Who doesn’t?! Everything in Italy just seems so rich, inviting, and just plain delicious. Delicious—that’s the best word to describe Valentino’s collection. It just looks good enough to eat. The clothes are like gelato for the eyes! Not only are the clothes pretty—I love all the colors, the femininity, the “girly-ness”—but they look like clothes people could and would actually wear. Of course, this particular “woman of a certain age” might not wear Valentino. I mean here in the Hoosier state there aren’t a lot of opportunities for such splendor. But a lady can dream! I can just imagine Lady Mary at Downton Abbey wearing Look 4 to dinner. I love how it harkens back to the ’20s. Raspberry Gelato! Looks 22 and 23 evoke the tart yellow lemons reminiscent of spring and Italy. Yellow is my favorite color, and nothing says fresh and warm like yellow. I can just imagine sipping a limoncello in Positano wearing one of these delightful frocks. Lemon gelato! Look 29 may be my favorite of all. It is youthful, sweet, and polished. I am in love with the hint of pale lavender tucked into the pleats around the bottom. And the green suede shoes are just a reminder of another gelato—pistachio! What I love about look 37 is the juxtaposition of the velvet bodice with the soft and flowing skirt. The petite birds on the skirt provided just the right amount of texture with the velvet. Blueberry gelato! And finally, as a mother of two beautiful girls who might possibly walk down the aisle in the not-too-distant future, I must finish with two lovely wedding dresses. I’m a big believer in doing something unique and different for a wedding. Thinking outside of the box when it comes to the dress is not only fun, but you might just end up with a heavenly little number you can actually wear again. Valentino has two sublime dresses that would make absolutely lovely bridal dresses. I love the pale yellow cut velvet in Look 26. It’s sweet and little sexy at the same time. Look 6 is fresh and adorable. I love the collar and the idea of wearing sandals with it. Both dresses would be perfect for any wedding, but perhaps especially divine for a destination wedding on the Amalfi Coast! Nothing vanilla here, so cream Gelato!   Patti Bobb, Mother of Vogue.com Living Writer Brooke Bobb, Reviews Balenciaga Loved the bright colors and combination of colors with almost all of the clothes—unusual and not so pastel springy, bold and fun! Overall, there were many things that real people could wear, not just models, movie stars, and members of the glitterati. This is unusual for clothes in the Paris shows. I liked the color and style of the big bags, but they are way too big to actually be carried day to day—unless you want to check them through on a plane trip, or use an extra seat for them at a restaurant. Shoulder pads are back! I knew I should have saved my military style blazer from the ’80s! I particularly liked look 39—bright yellow drape jacket with the contrasting lapels with the gold skirt and bright blue tights—what a color pop! My favorite look is the different trench coats, especially look 44, the black patent one, and outfit look 45: little black Red Riding Hood coat with the red pants.   Christy Weiss, Mother of Vogue.com Assistant Managing Editor Olivia Weiss, Reviews Hood By Air Look 1: How to Put on a Straightjacket. Step One. Look 7: Give me a minute, I’m almost ready. Look 8: If I had to guess, I’d say under your dress. Look 10: The Scarlet Letter Redux. Look 11: I was looking for my strapless, but this’ll do. Look 13: Now, where is my pointed hat? Look 14: Damn, I ran out of tape. Look 18: Thank God I’m right-handed, but I’m still really pissed I broke my arm. Look 24: I never know what to pack when I travel. Look 25: The opposite of the mankini, but serves the same purpose. Look 27: Skydiving is exhilarating, but I’m shell-shocked to be here. Look 30: Papa Smurf called, and he wants his rain clothes back. Look 35: Ryan Lochte’s body double on the “walk of shame.”   Guang-Ming Yang, Mother of Vogue Runway Social Media Manager Lucie Zhang, Reviews Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Gucci, and Loewe This season has a lot of things that look like Halloween costumes. But I like Louis Vuitton Look 1 and 8. They are both very flattering on the model, and I like how the belt shows off the waist. Balenciaga to me is too exaggerated. I don’t like the shoulder in Look 41, but it is probably fashionable. I like the colors and shapes for Gucci. The textures are fun, and I love an open neck. Loewe looks fun, but it is too much for me. I never liked high collars—just my personal opinion.  

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