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Mexico City Fashion Week: What We Saw, What We Loved

Mexico City Fashion Week: What We Saw, What We Loved

Vogue

Once upon a time, Mexico City was shortened in colloquial conversation to “DF,” which stands for Distrito Federal, or the Federal District, given that it’s its country’s capital. This was often confusing for outsiders. Now, though, it has been rebranded as “CDMX” (Ciudad de Mexico). The nickname upgrade reflects the city’s ongoing evolution, especially as it becomes evermore culturally influential on a global scale. The Ciudad is very proudly its own, spanning the then and now—where else can you take a few steps from a brick-sheathed 1940s-era Mario Pani masterpiece to a concrete-and-glass skyscraper that looks part alien by the firm LBR&A Arquitectos?—and its bounty of art, fashion, design, and food has never been so electric. At CDMXFW (known formally as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico), that combination of Mexico City’s pride and power was out in full tilt. From runways hosted at the Ex Convento San Hipólito in the historic downtown neighborhood to the midcentury bastion Sheraton Maria Isabel Hotel, which looks out at the famous Ángel de la Independencia monument, the event showed us everything from strong streetwear to over-the-top evening gowns—each embodying, in one way or another, some element of Mexico City’s kinetic spirit. See our highlights, below.   Gypsy Sport Gypsy Sport designer and 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Rio Uribe was born in Los Angeles, and lived in Mexico when he was a teenager. It was his first time showing his collection in Mexico City—a place that carries significance for the designer. “I am Mexican, and my parents brought me to Mexico often as a kid,” Uribe said. “I’m very attached to this country—and I’ve always been super inspired by the colors.” His presentation, held in the Sheraton’s kitchen, featured a mix of Gypsy Sport’s Spring 2017 offerings with an emphasis on offsetting primary colors. “This show is a total rainbow,” Uribe said, then added: “I was able to cast off the street—the kids in Mexico City are so cool.” Also, bonus points go out to DJ Paul Marmota. Gypsy Sport’s soundtrack? “Controlla,” by Drake, but in Spanish.   Kris Goyri Kris Goyri is often touted as one of Mexico’s most exciting fashion talents. His Spring show, held downtown, featured a tropical-night theme and came stacked with dramatic ruffling, Hawaiian colors, and gigantic floral elements. Goyri’s best bit was the use of a semitransparent gold-foiled textile, which, in the moment, reminded this writer of the grandeur of Mexico City’s legacies—from the spectacular ancient city of Teotihuacan (100 BC to 550 AD) to the equally spectacular Castillo de Chapultepec (1863).   Sanchez-Kane After presenting in New York with Vfiles in September, Barbara Sanchez-Kane brought her Spring collection home to Mexico City. The new lineup is menacing, boasting pillowed face-masks, metal butt-plates, and bondage elements. Highlights included shrouded baseball hats that feature a manipulation of Kappa’s famous man-and-woman logo, and ostensible shinguards depicting the Virgin of Guadalupe.   Vero Díaz Vero Díaz was a pleasant surprise. Strong points included an insect-and-flora print, worked onto cool bomber jackets, and this tiered lacy dress. Kudos for hitting two major trends in one: ruffles, and an off-the-shoulder cut.   Mancandy Mancandy was another enjoyable discovery. Designer Andres Jimenez—who debuted his first single at his show, a reggaeton track dubbed Dispuesto A Ti—does “genderless” streetwear, with a slightly Vetements-esque vibe. Excellent wide-leg trousers and jeans, carabiner necklaces, and airbrushed raw neck tattoos all stood out.   Hecho We covered Jack Miner’s Hecho earlier this year. Since then, he’s been picked up by major stockists, and is expanding his accessories roster. This all leather tote, made in Mexico City, is a must-have for wintertime warm-weather vacationing.   Pineda Covalin This Mexican brand is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Of particular interest for Spring: ace tapered-cuff jeans.   Alejandro Carlín Mexico City–based Alejandro Carlín, who studied at both Marangoni in Italy and Central Saint Martins in the U.K., gave us polished prep with bite—see this salmon pink collared shirtdress, paired with a satin choker.   Benito Santos Taste-wise, Benito Santos is only for the most flamboyant. However, like Marc Jacobs divined rave culture for Spring, Santos was all disco—even suggesting a disco-themed wedding. Did anyone ever get married at Studio 54? We like the idea.   Extracurriculars Mexico City can be a physically trying place—it rests at a high-altitude, air quality isn’t optimal, and traffic is often . . . well, not moving. There are, however, some fantastic places to reboot. Try Huset, the farm-to-table restaurant in the Roma neighborhood. The grilled-lemon margarita is out of this world. The facial and massage at the Remède Spa at the St. Regis are also worth booking. You can use the pool and hot tubs afterward, which look out over the endless city. Unmissable.  

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