The Opulent Hues of Antique Enamel Jewelry

Enthusiasts

The Opulent Hues of Antique Enamel Jewelry

Isadoras

Enamel antique jewelry is indeed special. Our customers are drawn to the rich brightness of our enamel pieces, and they are occasionally surprised to hear the answer when they ask us what the medium is.

Enameling is a centuries-old technique of fusing a vitreous glass coating to a metal base. Since ancient times, enamel has been used to add deep dramatic color, or beautiful subtle accents to decorative jewelry and artwork - hues that natural gems could not provide.

The interesting Celtic Dragonesque Brooches below (AD 43 to circa AD 410) are made of copper alloy inlaid with red and blue enamel. These brooches were functional as well as decorative. The long pin would have held a thick layer of fabric. They were typically worn as a pair – one on each shoulder, or joined by a chain or cord. It is amazing how the red and blue hues have retained their vivacity over time.

©Trustees of the British Museum

By the eighteenth century, the popularity of enamel had waned. However, the technique resurged in the nineteenth century during the Art Nouveau and Neo-Renaissance Eras.

Below, is an intriguing Arts & Crafts scarab necklace made with the plique-a-jour enameling technique - reflecting an Egyptian motif, which was popular at this time. The bright greens, deep browns, and dark violet blues make a stunning combination.

Many techniques have been used to create antique enamel jewelry – each is distinct and reflects the personality of the piece and the artistry of the jeweler.

Cloisonne

Raised metal cells are created and filled with powdered enamel that is melted either in a furnace, or with a hand-held torch. Below, is a Lalique necklace that uses both cloisonné and plique-a-jour enameling techniques.

Lalique necklace

Champleve

Champleve translates to “raised field” in French. Instead of using raised cells, as in cloisonné, cells are created by making depressions or lines in the metal. Powdered enamel is then placed into the depressions, fired, and polished.

champleve

Basse-taille

Translated from the French, basse-taille means “shallow cut,” and is also known as “translucent enameling.” This technique involves carving, engraving, or stamping multiple design layers into metal at different depths. The diverse recesses in the design allow the fired enamel show off various hues.

The basse-taille piece below, is a lovely example of a single color that glows with subtle, yet different hues.

basse-taille
Plique-a-jour

Plique-a-jour is an enameling technique where individual cells are filled with powdered enamel, and backed with a sheet of copper foil (or something similar). Once the enamel is fired, the backing is removed, and light filters through the translucent enamel, creating an effect similar to that of stained glass.

Isadoras Plique-a-Jour Necklace

Guilloche

Metal is engraved with intricate concentric designs using a lathe, and then covered with translucent enamel. After firing, the transparent enamel highlights the design and allows it to shine through.

Carl Faberge, goldsmith to the Russian Imperial family, was famous for using this technique on his Faberge eggs.

The antique enamel pieces in the heirloom collection at Isadoras are truly wonderful. They are sentimental, yet serene – colorful, and so very beautiful. We are sure that you will find them just as striking as we do.

Stop by and see them for yourself! Or, spend time on our website and check them out online.

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